The Sutlers Supreme
The Korean Roadhouses
First from the NAAFI ephemera collection is an unused postcard from the Korean War (1950–1953). It shows a NAAFI Roadhouse—one of several built along the main supply routes (MSR) to the forward positions of United Nations and British Commonwealth units in Korea.
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| Unused NAAFI/EFI Roadhouse postcard, Korean War (Author’s collection) |
Perhaps this card was once picked up at the roadhouse itself, tucked into a kitbag, and forgotten as the war moved on. I found it in the United States, which makes me wonder whether it once belonged to one of the many American servicemen who made up the bulk of United Nations (UN) forces. Just a postcard—but it opens a small window into NAAFI’s wartime presence in Korea, a story often overlooked in wider military histories.
On 25 June 1950, North Korean forces crossed the 38th Parallel, launching a surprise invasion of the South. Their rapid advance caught the Republic of Korea unprepared and drew swift international condemnation. The UN responded decisively: fifty-three member nations voted to support South Korea, passing a resolution that called for collective military action.
The British Commonwealth already maintained a strategic base at Kure, Japan, originally supporting the Allied Occupation Forces after the Second World War. It was from here that the Expeditionary Force Institutes (EFI) and the Naval Canteen Service (NCS) supplied Commonwealth ships’ canteens, whilst blockading the western coast of Korea. These operations marked NAAFI’s first direct involvement in the Korean conflict, providing vital support to servicemen at sea.
It was several months before the 27th British Infantry Brigade arrived from Hong Kong. With this expansion came the need for greater logistical and welfare support from NAAFI and EFI. In early August 1950, a nationwide campaign launched in British newspapers under the headline “Canteens for Korea.”
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| South Wales Daily Post 2 Aug 1950 |
The appeal called for 200 volunteers mostly former Royal Army Service Corps (RASC) and EFI servicemen and NAAFI staff. Of these, 70 were to serve directly in Korea, with the rest held in reserve. Replies poured in almost immediately, not only from ex-RASC/EFI men and NAAFI staff but also from many women eager to serve.
After several months of training at the EFI depot at Nutfield Priory, the first draft under Major Freddie Bridgett landed at Pusan on 21 November 1950. This marked the start of NAAFI’s vital six-year role in the Korean land war.
During the Korean War, NAAFI/EFI played a vital part in sustaining troop morale, and Roadhouses were central to that mission. They began as tented facilities before more permanent buildings were constructed. Four were built along the main supply routes (MSR) to the front lines: Newcastle, Newmarket, The Ship Inn, and Northlands.
Each Roadhouse served as a welfare hub. They provided hot meals, refreshments, newspapers, and magazines from home. Writing desks stood ready for correspondence, while counters stocked cigarettes, chocolate, toiletries, and small gifts. Staffed by RASC/EFI personnel and WVS volunteers, the Roadhouses offered troops a much-needed respite from the rigours of war.
The idea for Roadhouses came from Lt. Colonel Freddie Bridgett, who had seen similar welfare stations used in the desert campaigns of 1941–1943. In 1951, he revived the idea for Korea, and the first Roadhouses were set up under canvas.
These improvised tents, however, were no match for Korea’s extreme climate. Winters were bitter and long, stretching from November to April, while summers brought heat and torrential rain. By July and August, the rainy season turned dusty tracks into quagmires, and the canvas structures quickly became uninhabitable.
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| Early canvas Roadhouse with staff, Korea 1951. |
By 1952, with the war more static, the decision was made to replace the tents with permanent buildings. Major-General G. R. Cassels, GOC of the 1st British Commonwealth Division, and Lt. Colonel Frank Soden, OC RASC/EFI Japan and Korea, agreed to cooperate. The Division provided labour and timber, while NAAFI oversaw the design, construction, and equipping of the new Roadhouses.
Inspired by traditional Korean techniques, the buildings were timber-framed with thatched rice-straw roofs. Inside, brick fireplaces and timbered ceilings created a warm, familiar atmosphere, evoking the feel of an English country pub.
Captain Birnie’s Mission
On 1 April 1951, NAAFI Headquarters in London dispatched Captain Albert Wyness (Philip) Birnie to Korea to improve accommodation standards for NAAFI/EFI personnel. His task covered canteens, Roadhouses, and other welfare institutions.
As head of the RASC/EFI Works and Buildings Team, Birnie was joined by Sgt Ashfield, Sgt Porteous, and Cpl Humphries. He brought considerable experience, having worked in construction with Sir Robert McAlpine before serving with the Royal Scots Fusiliers in the Second World War. Later, as NAAFI Chief Works Officer, he oversaw projects in Germany, the Canal Zone, and North Africa.
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| Capt. A.W. Birnie with Private William Speakman VC. |
Despite gruelling conditions, Birnie and his team completed four permanent Roadhouses within a year. These new structures offered protection from Korea’s harsh climate and recreated the comforts of home—warmth, shelter, and a sense of familiarity in the middle of war.
Haven in Wartime
Photographs show the transition from skeletal timber frames to completed Roadhouses. With chimneys rising against the Korean landscape, these modest buildings stood worlds apart from the draughty canvas tents they replaced. In the biting winters, a fireplace and a mug of tea turned them into havens for weary soldiers.
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| Completed timber Roadhouse with thatched roof, 1952–53 |
The project was a major success, warmly acknowledged within NAAFI. Lt-Col. F. J. Soden, OBE, later reflected on the achievement in his article “Korea and Japan… Thanks for the Memory.”
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| NAAFI News Summer 1953 Captain Birnie’s gallant and distinguished service in Korea was further recognised when Major General M. M. A. R. West recommended him for the MBE, which he was awarded on 1 June 1953. |
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| The National Archives WO373/118/15 |
Final Service
Sadly, this would be Captain Birnie’s last task for NAAFI. His health, affected by the harsh conditions, declined. He died on 2 August 1953 while on leave in England, just weeks before he was due to return to Korea. He was 39 years old.
His epitaph reads:
IN PROUD MEMORY OF CAPT. A.W. BIRNIE, M.B.E.YOUNGER SON OF ABOVEDIED AS A RESULT OF SERVICE IN KOREAAUG 2ND 1953, AGED 39 YEARS.
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| Bristol Evening Post 4 Aug 1953 |
This concludes Part One. NAAFI’s earlier involvement set the stage, but the Roadhouses’ story continues. Part Two will explore how they evolved, the servicemen who relied on them, and the dedicated staff who kept them running throughout the conflict.
Sources & Clippings
South Wales Daily Post, 2 Aug 1950
NAAFI News, Sep 1951; Winter 1952–53; Summer 1953
Bristol Evening Post, 4 Aug 1953
The National Archives (TNA) WO373/118/15
NAAFI in Uniform, Lieut-Col. Howard N. Cole OBE, TD, DL
Continue the story:
Read Part Two – The Korean Roadhouses
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