The Sutlers Supreme
The Korean Roadhouses
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Map courtesy of Cassell & Co Ltd, from 'The Korean War – The story of the fighting commonwealth regiments 1950-1953' by Tim Carew, published in 1967. |
As the map above illustrates, the Korean War unfolded in distinct and often brutal phases before settling into the static, trench‑like fighting that came to define daily life for troops—and for the NAAFI roadhouses that served them.
The conflict erupted on 25 June 1950, when North Korean forces surged across the 38th Parallel, driving UN troops into a desperate defence at the Pusan Perimeter. A dramatic reversal followed with the UN amphibious landing at Inchon and the breakout from Pusan, pushing the front almost to the Chinese border. But the entry of Chinese forces and overstretched supply lines triggered a sharp retreat, including the second fall of Seoul. By early 1951, the UN counter‑offensive had stabilised the front near the 38th Parallel, where it remained locked in positional warfare until the armistice was signed on 27 July 1953.
As the frontlines hardened and movement gave way to routine, the roadhouses adapted too—transformed from improvised canteens into more permanent NAAFI posts offering comforts, entertainment, and a steady supply of essentials. Some were close enough to hear the guns. In this second instalment, we’ll trace that physical evolution—how these buildings were designed, placed, and constructed—and consider what their presence tells us about the changing needs of Commonwealth forces in Korea. In Part One, I mentioned that this instalment would explore the people behind the roadhouses. That focus now moves to Part Three, allowing this section to concentrate on how the buildings themselves were designed, placed, and constructed.
Evolution of the roadhouses
As the war settled into its long, static phase, roadhouses became familiar fixtures for British and Commonwealth troops stationed across Korea. Positioned along the main supply routes of the 1st Commonwealth Division, they offered a consistent presence—places to rest, write home, enjoy a hot drink, and reconnect with a sense of normality amid unfamiliar terrain.
Although detailed records are scarce and surviving photographs limited, enough material remains to offer a glimpse into the role and character of the Korean roadhouses. The following section presents images of the four known sites, along with maps for two whose locations can be reasonably inferred. These visuals, though few, provide insight into the modest but meaningful contribution these facilities made to the welfare of Commonwealth troops.
Ship Inn Roadhouse
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George Forty - At War in Korea (Arms and Armour) |
The roadhouse called Ship Inn, shown here in a rare period photograph, shares architectural features with the Newcastle roadhouse and was likely among the earliest permanent roadhouses built in Korea. Though modest in construction, it offered greater stability and shelter than the canvas roadside canteens it replaced. The presence of garden parasols suggests the photo was taken during warmer months, while the raised NAAFI flag signals its official role as a place of rest and refreshment for the troops.
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Australian War Memorial MELJ0191 |
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Australian War Memorial MELJ0078 |
Following the signing of the armistice, the nature of NAAFI operations in Korea began to shift. With the front lines stabilised, roadhouses like the Ship Inn were extended and adapted to meet the evolving needs of Commonwealth personnel. The left-hand image shows a journalist interviewing an officer outside the Ship Inn, with a corrugated metal structure—likely a U.S.-manufactured Quonset hut, similar in design to the British Nissen hut—visible in the background. In the right-hand image, a group of servicemen enjoy a quiet moment inside the same hut, gathered with drinks beneath its distinctive curved ceiling. These scenes reflect the gradual transition from improvised wartime shelters to more permanent, functional spaces of rest and routine.
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Korea War Project - Map Sets and Library |
Newcastle Roadhouse
The Newcastle roadhouse remains one of the more elusive NAAFI sites in Korea, with little known documentation to confirm its precise location or operational history. The first image—a postcard that inspired the opening of this blog series—offers a rare visual reference. Judging by its architectural style, Newcastle appears to have been constructed to the same design as the Ship Inn, suggesting these two may have been among the earliest permanent roadhouses established during the war. It is possible that Newcastle was located in or near Tokchon, though no direct evidence has yet surfaced to confirm this.
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Postcard image courtesy of the Sutlers Supreme collection |
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Lieut-Colonel Howard N Cole - NAAFI in Uniform |
Newmarket Roadhouse
Like Newcastle, the Newmarket roadhouse remains lightly documented, with no references to confirm its location. Judging by the surviving photographs, Newmarket appears to have been built to a higher specification than its predecessors—suggesting it was constructed later, when materials, labour and planning were more readily available. The structure shows signs of thoughtful design and permanence, marking a quiet evolution in the roadhouse programme as the conflict stabilised and logistical support became more established.
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James Lobaza contributor to Facebook Group Korean War Pics and Stories |
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George Forty - Called Up A National Service Scrapbook |
Northlands Roadhouse
Northlands was the final roadhouse to be constructed in Korea, officially opened on 27 February 1953. From the available photographs, it stands out as the most thoughtfully designed and well-built of the series. Its alpine chalet-style architecture, complete with dormer windows and stone foundations, reflects a shift toward permanence and comfort as the war drew to a close. The landscaped garden areas, decorative umbrellas, and even a helicopter pad suggest a facility built not just for rest, but for a well-earned break in surroundings that offered both comfort and dignity.
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Harry Miller - Services to the Services The Story of Naafi |
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Harry Miller - Services to the Services The Story of Naafi |
The opening ceremony was attended by representatives of British, Australian, Canadian, New Zealand, and Indian troops, marking its significance as the fourth and final roadhouse for Commonwealth Forces in Korea. Major-General Michael N.A.R. West, G.O.C. 1st Commonwealth Division, performed the ceremonial ribbon-cutting across the main porch, using a ribbon in NAAFI colours. In his address, he praised those responsible for this latest addition to NAAFI’s welfare and recreational facilities in the Korean theatre.
Distinguished guests included Major-General James C. Fry, G.O.C. 2nd American Division; Brigadier W.P. Bogart, Commander of 28 Canadian Brigade; Brigadier G.P. Gregson, CRA (Commander Royal Artillery) 1st Commonwealth Division; Mrs Matthews, WVS Administrator; the Hon. Betty Byng; and Miss Daisy Blackford, also of the WVS. Captain Birnie and his Works and Buildings team, Lieutenant Redman (District Officer), and Sergeant Porteous (i/c F & E (Fixtures and Equipment)) were formally presented to Generals West and Fry in recognition of their contributions.
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Korea War Project - Map Sets and Library |
This map—AMS Series L751, Sheet 6527 I (1:50,000)—was previously used to locate the Ship Inn and now serves to approximate the position of Northlands. While no formal grid reference has been found, a report in NAAFI News (Summer 1953) notes that Northlands was situated south of Teal Bridge on the Imjin River—a detail confirmed in the HQ Commonwealth Division war diary. The annotated map highlights this inferred location, helping to visualise its proximity to key supply routes and river crossings. Though less precise than Ship Inn’s documented coordinates, this placement aligns with the broader pattern of roadhouse construction near strategic junctions and transport corridors.
What began as a simple two-part exploration has grown into something more layered than first imagined. The story of the Korean roadhouses is not only about their construction and geography, but also about the everyday lives they touched. Drawing on newspaper clippings, NAAFI News articles, and personal accounts, the next instalment will turn to the people: the soldiers who found respite there, the staff who kept them running, and the way these places were remembered in the press. Together, they complete the picture of how a handful of modest roadhouses became symbols of comfort and community in a distant and difficult war.
Sources & Clippings
The Korean War – The story of the fighting commonwealth regiments 1950-1953 by Tim Carew
At War in Korea - by George Forty
Australian War Memorial Digital Records
Korea War Project - Map Sets and Library
NAAFI in Uniform - Lieut-Colonel Howard N Cole OBE, TD, DL
James Lobas contributor to Facebook Group Korean War Pics and Stories
Called Up -A National Service Scrapbook - by George Forty
Services to the Services The Story of Naafi - by Harry Miller -
NAAFI News Summer 1953
Read Part Three – The Korean Roadhouses
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